What’s this a 7:30am alarm? Really, oh no, please. Why this time?
Oh right, I was supposed to be doing a full day of tourism in Kinmen and I had to drag myself up. Snoring/noise from the other 3 people in the dorm had kept sleep to a minimum and I begrudgingly got up and left the hostel by bicycle just after 8:00am.
Today’s plan was to roughly follow the ‘Historic Monument Route‘ then the ‘Adventurous Scenic Route‘ on Little Kinmen aka Lieyu. The first route would take me south of Jincheng then head out west to Shuitou to get the ferry to Little Kinmen.
The weather appeared a bit nicer and it was a short 10-minute ride to Jugang Tower, just south of Jincheng town. This landmark from the Chinese civil war period appeared to be a lot older than just 66 years old. There was some interesting information inside, and the view from the top was of course obscured by haze/fog and ‘oh no, what was that’, a mainland tourist blowing into a horn repeatedly, deafening anyone within 5 metres.
Not wishing to be deafened, or indeed irritated within the first half hour of the day’s tourism, I left and worked out my route for the rest of the morning.
The one problem with Kinmen’s cycle routes was that they had branches off, and if you wanted to do a circular, a lot of backtracking was needed. That said, you can’t reasonably expect everything to be done in one linear or circular route. This was what I came up with…
My route
The proper route
Google Maps has its limitations and obviously this wouldn’t cover it perfectly, with a couple of side-trips, my route back to Jincheng etc…
I wanted to get over to the east side of Jincheng and followed a backroad past the Stable Masters Shrine to the main road down the east side. I soon reached the village of Oucuo, one of the seven traditional villages of Kinmen. It was a lot less touristy than Shanhou had been the previous day, almost too quiet. I saw about half of the village but moving on down the road to the next village of Zhushan.
The architecture was similar in Zhushan but there was a pavilion up on a hill overlooking the village. I guess on a clear day it would give a birdseye view of the area but not on this day. It felt a bit more quaint than Oucuo, and there was definitely more ‘going on’.
My next destination was Zhaishan Tunnel and looking at Google Maps, I saw a backroad east of Zhushan that would take me down the coast, rather than going south-west, then south-east and having to backtrack later.
I got on the road, and it quickly turned into a farm track, reaching another military area, then turned into a sandy track! I wasn’t quite sure whether it was right, but it brought me out at a backroad in the forest. I checked Google Maps, and voila, I simply had to follow the road past the landfill site 2km to Zhaishan tunnel.
Umm? Is this right?
Of course!
I knew to expect tourists and lots of mainland Chinese, and after I parked up and walked towards the entrance, two coachloads had arrived. They hovered at the entrance to the tunnel, ignorant to their surroundings and I, unfortunately, had to push my way past, covering my ears from the deafening instructions from their tour guide.
Zhaishan Tunnel was built for military purposes in 1961 in a U shape, outside there were different landing craft and anti-aircraft weapons. Inside, you had to go through a tunnel, to then descend to the main U shaped tunnel. There were another group of mainlanders but upon turning the opposite way to them, wouldn’t have any hassle for the rest of the day.
For one of Kinmen’s main tourist attractions, it was… ‘ok’. It was more history, but nothing too special, although worth 40 minutes which is what I spend there.
Just as I was about to leave I picked 2 Taiwanese sausages and thought about my next move. I looked at the time, and it was 10:30, I knew I had to give Little Kinmen a good 3-4 hours but also didn’t want to miss anything in the Jincheng area.
For the next hour, I steadily made my way towards Shuitou where the pier was for Little Kinmen. I first stopped off at Kinmen’s only natural lake, Gugang Lake and its tower.
5 minutes later I reached Jinmencheng village, the home of Wentai Tower and also having 4 gates. I turned left at the east gate down towards Wentai Tower but the car-park area was being rebuilt, I backtracked a little into the centre of the village near to Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor’s factory, the site of another of the village gates. From there, I turned left uphill and there it was on the corner Wentai Tower…
I backtracked once more, heading back to the main road (not on the official cycle route but a branch route) and got a photo of the north gate. Nothing particularly special given how many ‘gates’ I have seen in my time in Taiwan.
My next stop was another short ride away (7 minutes) Shuitou, another of those 7 traditional villages. This was bit more interesting as it described how merchants made their money in places like Indonesia then came back to Kinmen to build extravagant houses, and how they needed to protect them from pirates.
Concerned about time, I made my way down the road to Shuitou Pier for the 12:00 ferry across to Little Kinmen. I had no idea where I was going, all I will say is, keep going straight, the ticket office is on the left (if you need it, I left my Easycard in my room!) and the ferry just beyond it.
The ticket was 60NT with space on board the ferry for well over 100 people across two floors, this was never tested!
Since the morning the views had not improved one bit, not one bit at all and the water was quite choppy.
Reaching Little Kinmen I expected there to be somewhere at the port to buy something to drink, but no. I didn’t have much water left and knew I was going to run out within an hour.
At first, I didn’t know where to go, there were no signs for the cycle path at first but as I walked towards the visitor centre and Jiangong Tunnel I found a map. I looked at my phone and surmised the cycle route began on the main road.
So at Jiugong Tunnel, I thought I may as well stop and have a look as it was one of 24 sights to see. Note, I did not do all 24 with some of them on the interior of the island!
Jiugong was another classic Kinmenese tunnel, going through the mountain to Luocuo harbour. It was quiet with few tourists, and after making my way through to the Luocuo side, turned around and walked back to my bicycle parked outside.
I backtracked to the port, and the main road, the cycle began with a steep climb and I wondered if the route around Little Kinmen would be by road…
No. There was a signpost to the right towards the top, and the cycle route began on a track. It turned out most of the cycle route would be on a dedicated cycle path around the island.
The climb
The start
The path
The first couple of km were non-descript as I made quick stops at General’s Fortress and Tiger Fortress but didn’t get any photos. They were just standard fortresses, of which I’d seen a lot of over the weekend.
As the path got into the open I got a glimpse of the new Little Kinmen to Kinmen bridge, unfortunately due to these works the path was suddenly blocked off. There was a sign directing people left, and as such, no real diversion route. I was starting to get thirsty and was hoping, by getting on the main road I might somewhere to get water.
I had to use Google Maps to find my way back through the backroads north of the construction site to get to my next two sights, Yongshi Castle and Tieshan Fort. On reaching Tieshan Forts I was met with an exit turnstile? Confused I walked around a bit and couldn’t find an entrance. Slightly aggrieved, I backtracked up the road towards Yongshi Castle.
There was a visitor center there, surely they had water? No, even better! There was a water machine with ice cold water, exactly what I needed!
The steps leading up to Yongshi Castle
Let’s see if this is any good…
Life saver!
Yongshi Castle was a confusing maze of tunnels with barely any light. There wasn’t a map and I spent 10 minutes randomly walking down corridors hoping to find something of interest. It was obvious most of the tunnels didn’t see much use.
Rather accidentally, I stumbled into a well-lit tunnel and it appeared to be going somewhere, where? I didn’t know! It appeared to be a connection between two things and later it was obvious what the was.
It turned out I’d found a landmine museum with displays on boards on the tunnel walls. Not knowing much about landmines I learned about the minefields in Kinmen, types of landmines and international efforts to stop the production/use of landmines.
Where does this go?
Minefields on Kinmen
Perhaps the most interesting/scary bit of the museum was the interactive minefield. There was a trail of fake mines on the floor that ‘exploded’ when a motion sensor picked up your footsteps. It looked realistic enough, that I wasn’t 100% sure if they were totally fake or not, as dumb as that sounds.

I made my way out through the tunnels, and unbeknownst to me, was now in Tieshan Fort. I thought it was simply an extension of Yongshi Fort and didn’t spend much time there, except finding my way out!
My next destination was Lian Lake and the beach there, in the 0.6km cycle, I somehow managed to lose the path and end up on the main road, rather than the coast road!
Lian Lake
The beach
The path continued to another military museum, Hujingtou but the short 2km ride wasn’t without incident. I was heading downhill when a mainland Chinese tour bus came roaring through the other way, given the path was suitable for bikes/motorcycles and one lane for larger vehicles, this seemed a bit stupid.
Hujingtou Museum was small and quiet, but with a few nice displays. The next hour was spent cycling down the west coast, towards the south-west tip of Lieyu stopping off at minor tourist attractions, such as small temples, more forts and lakes. It was really quiet though and a peaceful part of the afternoon.
A nice beach
L26 Fortress
Frogmen
Xihu Lake
Xihu Lake
An army temple
Another lake
Another fortress
The beautiful beach behind the fort
Chaste Maiden Temple
I got towards the south-west tip and there was a small diversion to Shaxi Fort, not on the official bike route. This was the best attraction on the island. The views from here were superb, the beach looked beautiful and it was a really nice way to end the sightseeing for the day.
I must just advise that where the route splits, don’t go uphill towards the actual fort but downhill instead to a small car-park.
I made my way back to the port, the path continued past fields, not far in from the coast. There was one or two steep climbs, but it was pleasant, relaxed 7km back to the port. I was surprised to see the path end, exactly opposite where it began and it had taken about 4 hours to do.
A steep section…
The cycle route ends opposite where it starts.
I had plenty of time before the 5pm ferry and my trip to Little Kinmen (Lieyu) and indeed Kinmen was pretty much over, right?
No. I got the ferry back across and there was one more attraction a short diversion off the main road, between Shuitou Pier and Shuitou village, Maoshan Tower.
This looked like a long hike from the car-park but in-fact took me just a couple of minutes. It was similar to Wentai Tower but the views were awful as the light was fading and the fog remained.
I was back in Jincheng around 5:50pm and enjoyed a nice beer before going back to the hostel. The plan was to do Jiangong Islet, an islet only accessible for an hour a day the following morning.
That didn’t happen. I woke up to torrential rain and the fog was causing issues with flights. Instead, I got up later and took the 9:30am bus back to the airport. Thankfully there were no issues with my flight and I was home at 12:30pm.
So Kinmen, Little Kinmen? Is it worth a weekend away? Absolutely. I was very unlucky with the weather, it didn’t rain but the fog/mist never cleared all weekend and that definitely took a shine off.
Kinmen has history, both cultural and military history. It’s somewhere to escape to, away from the craziness of Taiwan’s main island. In Tainan and other cities, you constantly have to worry about traffic and it’s crowded, Kinmen is the total opposite. I was cycling around with very little concern for traffic, because there was hardly any.
I will be following up this post with another one, more about the practicalities of a trip.
You’d made it to the end of this very long, second half of the post, thanks for reading.