Since I first came to Taiwan in September 2015 the east coast has always been alluring to me. At first, it felt like the mountains, the towns and lush greenery of the east coast was like a faraway land. The mountains of Taiwan really do feel like a barrier between the populated, crowded west coast and the pretty paradise that is the east. As the crow flies, Tainan and Hualien are separated by just 182km or 113 miles, the shortest route around via Kaohsiung, Pingtung and Taitung is over double that. After 6 visits to the east coast, it still holds that appeal but doesn’t feel quite so distant anymore.
Every year when the baseball schedule is released I always look for the Hualien games first. There is the same problem every year as I always talk about in these posts, the need to be mindful of the weather but I have to book a ticket on Sunday’s last train and a hostel in advance. In my two previous baseball trips to Hualien, I hadn’t had an issue with the weather.
This year there was a new problem, it’s August. I work mornings in August and at first glance, I said to myself, “No, it’s too much to attempt Hualien this year.” These words of wisdom to myself were ignored come late July when I booked the match tickets, hostel and train out on the Sunday evening.
Come Friday evening, I was tired and for once managed a few hours sleep before the inevitable alarm. I woke up at 4:45am with no idea how I was getting to Hualien. I had initially looked at an overnight trip, then wanted to get the train to Hualien at 6:30am, but I’d seen it had obviously sold out. The other idea was bus to Taipei then direct train to Hualien. There is one missing option, the combo ticket. The TRA had put back the mid-afternoon local train from Luodong to Hualien by about an hour, which left a 5-hour gap in the timetable and rendered the combo useless for me.
I went on the TRA website, put in Tainan to Hualien, and oh wow, really? There was a seat or seats available on the 0630 Tainan to Hualien train. I booked it but needed to pick it up by 6am. I got out of my slumber and was away by 5:30am. The roads were quiet, and I was able to pick up my ticket and grab some drinks well before 6am.
I didn’t sleep much on the boring section of the ride, through to Taitung and instead got an hour’s sleep between Taitung and Hualien, the most beautiful part of the journey. I did still manage to get some photos though…
For a 5 hour 20 journey, it went quite smoothly but immediately after getting off the train, there was an overwhelming feeling of heat. It took about 30 minutes for me to realise, I wasn’t going to get to Qixingtan beach and back as I’d just missed the last bus there for about 1 hour 30. I walked around a little and ended up in a 7 Eleven until 2:20pm. It was around 38C and really sticky, those are not conditions you want to be out in.
2:20pm and I knew I needed to get a sim-card for my new phone that had arrived on Thursday, I finally got fed up with not having a camera and had ordered a new LG G7. I’ve notoriously only had a sim for about 2 months of my time here but wanted one for the new phone. I eventually got it sorted and walked down to the hostel, where check-in would be open around 3.
I arrived at 3:10pm and the door was locked, staff eventually turning up about 3:30pm who then had to get their boss, to check me in. It seemed all a bit odd, and standing outside in high 30s heat wasn’t pleasant…
A quick wash and I walked up to the train station to get a taxi to the stadium. I was simply not walking in that heat, the 7-minute journey costing NT$155. I had wanted to get to the stadium early with Hualien having no reserved seats, the last two years, people have arrived as the gates opened, dumped their bags down and disappeared! I thought I was too late arriving at 4:10 but managed to get a reasonable seat.
I immediately noticed the changes to the stadium, with now a stage for the cheerleaders and red/blue seats replacing the orange/green ones. The bullpen area had been improved with a roof over it, it felt like a much better stadium.
Pre-game I saw a lot of Lions fans who I knew, which is in contrast to previous years where I’d seen almost nobody I knew! Quite a lot of Tainan based Lions and that was good to see as the atmosphere with mainly Hualien based fans hasn’t always been great.
The game got going pitting Michael Nix of Lamigo Monkeys against Pan Wei-lun of the Uni Lions. Sadly as a Lions fan, this game was a complete disaster as Lamigo took an early 1-0 lead and Michael Nix was in superb form. At 5-0 down in the top of the 9th, it wouldn’t have been such a bad defeat but Lamigo added 5 more runs to go 10-0 up. By the bottom of the 7th, I felt the shut-out was inevitable and so it proved. A 10-0 loss and I was left licking my wounds somewhat, as I made the 35-minute walk back to the hostel.
Nicole
Away fans
Defeat it is.
I got back, had another few beers which was probably a bit silly as I didn’t end up going to sleep until 1am.
I slept well and woke to find cleaners in the room at 9:30am, so got myself up and at the bus station to find I’d just missed the 10am bus to Qixingtan beach. A 50-minute wait ensured and that was eventful with a tout trying to persuade me to go with him in his taxi. I nearly said yes as I couldn’t be bothered waiting so long but had second thoughts and backed out once I realised it was unmarked. It didn’t feel right.
I got off the bus at Qixingtan about 1125 and had roughly 3 hours to enjoy my favourite place in Taiwan. It was slightly cooler than the previous day but I saw my suncream was out of date, I didn’t want to risk it. I had had severe burns on Qixingtan beach in 2017 which almost saw me admitted to hospital, I was not keen on repeating that. A quick Google Maps check showed me there was a Family Mart about 10 minutes walk away.
379NT for a small bottle suncream was painful on the wallet but not as painful as the sunburn would be! I slowly worked my way back to where I started, picked up a coconut and water for 180NT (which seemed expensive!) and headed for my favourite spot on the beach.
Where the mountains reach the sea, there is peace and serenity.
I think those words sum up Qixingtan nicely, Qixingtan feels like a piece of paradise, even more so than much of the rest of the east coast. The mountains descend through the clouds and crash down into the Pacific Ocean. The water is crystal clear and the rocks on the beach feel like stepping on hot coals…
I slipped off my shoes and for the first time at Qixingtan, the rocks and stones were genuinely roasting hot. I had to lay down a layer of clothes as you simply couldn’t sit on the beach without the feeling you were starting to cook ever so slightly. Yet, of course, this did not detract from the beauty of the beach or even distract me! It was a slight quirk to the outing.
I spent about 2 hours 30 laid down, occasionally paddling in the water. The relaxing feeling I get from Qixingtan is not matched anywhere else on this island partly because other beaches are more touristy (I’m looking at you Kenting), only perhaps Baishawan in Kenting takes my breath away as much.
Lion on the beach
Obligatory selfie
Last look…
I picked up some food and waited for the bus back to Hualien City, confusingly the bus stop on the Hualien bound side said waiting across the road… So a crowd of us waited by that bus stop, and of course, once the bus rolled up at 3:10, we all had to dash across the road. The sign was wrong in both English and Chinese…
Back in Hualien and I sat outside 7 Eleven where I had a Lamigo fan/official, with a lanyard ask for a photo. Bored, I got in a taxi as I was simply wasting phone battery, something I’d had been doing at the stadium anyway.
Pre-match, nothing felt out the ordinary. I just didn’t want the Lions to lose too badly, Lamigo Monkeys are a top team and I posted on Facebook another defeat was coming. I’m notorious for saying things that turn out to be completely wrong and…
Matt Grimes v Ryan Verdugo on the mound, one pitcher would last an inning, the other wouldn’t need to do anything special and would get the win. In my 4 years and 163 games watching the Lions, Lamigo Monkeys had always been this thorn in the side. I’d twice seen them hit double figures in an inning v the Lions, I’d seen him double figures against us 9 times but never had I seen us hit 10 v them in a regular-season game, after 38 attempts.
Lamigo were swatted away within minutes. They did nothing in the top of the first and then Matt Grimes and the Monkeys fielders proceeded to have a horrow show. 5 hits, 5 runs and 2 errors put the Lions firmly in control.
A run back made it 5-1 before Grimes gave up 2 more hits and was prompted removed. His replacement gave away 2 quick hits and the Lions led 7-1 after 2 innings. Already I was thinking, will today be 10?
The answer was a resounding yes! This became one of the most memorable nights I’ve ever had watching the Uni Lions, this was paradise, this was something quite special. This was a night where the 2019 Lions slogan “PROUD” was something I felt.
Two more runs followed in the 4th. 9-1 Lions. Elation turned to ecstasy as the 5th inning brought about that magic 10. A walk, a hit, Lin Jing-kai, SINGLE! 10-1 LIONS! Next man up, half Argentine/half Taiwanese Lin An-ke at the plate… HOME RUN! 13-1 LIONS! Rookie home run, this was just crazy and with 0 outs. The next thought was just how many would be hit…
An out followed by another man getting to base, and Su Chih-chieh GOING DEEP, GOING, GOING, GONEEEE! 15-1 LIONS! 2 more to base… no… oh, two outs followed. 6 runs in the inning but now the thought was on the train back, the game could only last 4 hours 5 at most, I was wondering whether I’d miss anything at the end. I was not the only one in this position.
Into the bottom of the 6th, Kao Kuo-ching was ground out but got the RBI, Su Chih-chieh then hit his second home run of the game to make it a ridiculous 17-1 Lions…

Just then I realised the Lions had a bullpen and not a good one. 4 home runs in the game but we ended up with 9. Lamigo pulled it back to a mere 17-3. Lin Jing-kai’s RBI made it 18-3 before Chen Chun-chiu hit a solo homer and Kuo Yun-wen hit a two-run shot to make it 18-6, the gloss was starting to be taken off things.
Su Chih-chieh then went back to back to back with his third homer of the night in the bottom of the 8th. Two more homers followed, Chu Yu-hsien made it 19-7 and I left at this point, knowing I had 33 minutes until the train. Just as I left, Chen Chun-chiu made it 19-8 with the game’s 9th home run. There would be no further score as it ended Lamigo Monkeys 8-19 Uni Lions.
I walked away in complete disbelief, the most runs I have seen in a game, the most home runs and certainly the best game of baseball I’d ever seen.

I got back to Hualien station having picked up a few beers along the way, the journey taking about 25 minutes via a convenience store for beer. I only managed three on the journey north to Taipei. I didn’t get a good selfie at the game, but maybe this shot from the train, sums up my feelings…

I got back to Taipei and got to 0020 bus back to Tainan. I slept a little bit, having finished off my last beer. Key in lock around 5am, a long arduous weekend trip but great fun as usual. It’s nice to write about Hualien as always.
2100+ words and that’s me done on this grey, rainy miserable Sunday afternoon in Tainan.
Tom